Wednesday 19 October 2011

Declogging Drains When Nothing Else Helps

!±8± Declogging Drains When Nothing Else Helps

We regularly use our washing machine, dishwasher, sink and wash basin. They are all on the hose that runs next to the window wall to the main exhaust pipe vertically through the building. The tubes were no longer controlled for years before we moved into our house and, of course, the inevitable happens pretty quickly after. The big problem we had was that no chemical effect was declogging the kitchen drain. We called a plumber andresult was the biggest mess our kitchen has ever seen since construction. The plumber was burnt by a 94% sulfuric acid that he used unsuccessfully and eventually he was forced to do a more physical job, and that is where we realized that my husband could actually do this himself. So here we go, take the following few simple steps to avoid calling in the plumber:

First you need to identify where your kitchen drainage pipe is. Ours runs alongside the window wall and connects to the 5-inch main vertical drainage pipe in the eastern corner of the building. Find this pipe junction and you will see an access cap facing towards you. These caps are funny because they have been designed for access yet you might struggle to remove it because nobody has touched it for years. Try pouring a bit of liquid soap at the contact and then unscrew the cap. I advise using a mask, rubber gloves and goggles when doing this job for health and safety reasons.

Take a decent drill snake drain unblocker that comes with various attachments which you may have to use if pipe is seriously clogged (you shouldn't pay more than and they last for life). Push the snake drill through the access hole into a 2-inch kitchen drain pipe. You will feel when the snake reaches the obstruction. Push it forwards and backwards until the pipe is declogged. Be careful, as soon as this happens all the liquid in the drain pipe will rush towards the access junction so make sure you do not face it when this happens! Slightly open the tap with hot water and keep pushing the snake in and out to remove any residual material still attached to its inner wall. Attach the access cap and you're done - saving more than 0.

There is also a very simple and effective way to avoid similar problems in the future using just hot water. Once a week open a hot water tap and leave it running for about 40-60 seconds. This will heat up the pipes and melt the grease on the inner walls of the drainage pipe. Wait for about 2-3 minutes to allow for melting. During that time insert a sink stopper and fill the sink 2/3 with very hot water. Rapidly remove the stopper from the sink and hot water will flush any residual grease from the kitchen drainage pipe into the main system. Make sure to insert stoppers in all your sinks for about half an hour afterward to prevent smells entering your home. Do this with all your sinks and baths once a week and you will never again have to call in the plumber for declogging the drains.


Declogging Drains When Nothing Else Helps

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Sunday 9 October 2011

Is Your Septic System Failing?

!±8± Is Your Septic System Failing?

You are going about your daily routine -- taking a shower, using the bathroom, making breakfast, using the garbage disposal etc. You notice that the plumbing is moving a little bit slower than usual -- you may even begin to notice a foul smell coming from the drains - then it happens. After a brief stop to the restroom you notice the garbage disposal, toilet and other items have made their way into the shower floor!

In a panic, you realize that the septic system is full and you can't remember the last time (if ever) you had the septic tank pumped. You pick up the yellow pages and dial a septic company to come and pump the tank. You are relieved to see the shower has drained and that your plumbing nightmare is over -- or so you think!

You go about your life and forget about the septic nightmare you just experienced. You get back to life and your daily routine and it happens again. There in the shower is that familiar sludge! Yuck. What is happening?

While this is an extremely stressful it is all to common. In the desert southwest of Tucson, Arizona we typically begin to see leach lines fail at about 25 years. Your area might be a little different but most leach fields begin to fail for lack of care.

What are leaching fields exactly? Well, the leach fields are underground gravel beds that receive all of the fluids from the septic tank. Fluid runs to a distribution box and then to these gravel beds. After a number of years tree roots, or sediment begins to clog the gravel beds and perforated pipe. Eventually these lines become so completely stopped up that the liquid has nowhere to go but back into the tank, back up the drain pipe and into the lowest level of your home.

So, what do you do about this?

A number of companies on the web will attempt to sell you chemical products that they claim will repair your trouble. In my opinion you are wasting your money. Once the leach fields are in this sort of shape you will most likely need to consider replacing the leach fields.

If you are handy -- and extremely brave, you could attempt to resolve this on your own, but you should be warned that this is a nasty job with lots of smells and disgusting sludge. If you can get over the smells and a little mess then it's time to get started.

Rent a backhoe from your local equipment yard and begin digging at the outlet side of the tank. Once you have uncovered the outlet pipe, cut the pipe with a pvc saw. If you have clay pipe I think it's just easier to break off the clay pipe completely and insert a new solid PVC or SDR35 drain pipe. Once you have inserted the new pipe into the tank you can mortar it in.

Now, contact the local septic tank manufacturer and ask for a concrete distribution box and lay the box level a few inches below the outlet pipe. You now have a place from which to start your trenches. Now, begin to dig your trenches at 3' to 4' below the distribution box. You will want to make your trenches to the original plan in order to install the same amount of leach area.

Now, fill the trenches with 3/4' to 1' gravel and lay your perforated pipes level throughout the trenches. Backfill with at least 6" of gravel over the pipe and cover with a soil separator.

Now, you are ready to backfill!

I have given you the very basics but I think you can get the idea. It's not rocket science but you want to make sure you talk with your local Department of Environmental Quality before starting your work. In some cases you will be required to scrap all of this and hookup to the city sewer system if they have expanded service to your area.

If you are not up for this work (not for most people) call on a licensed septic installer and get your 3 estimates. Make sure you ask about what kind of condition they will leave the area when they are done. If you want to save a little money you can take care of the clean up yourself.

I hope this helped in some way. Good luck to you!


Is Your Septic System Failing?

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