Wednesday, 19 October 2011

Declogging Drains When Nothing Else Helps

!±8± Declogging Drains When Nothing Else Helps

We regularly use our washing machine, dishwasher, sink and wash basin. They are all on the hose that runs next to the window wall to the main exhaust pipe vertically through the building. The tubes were no longer controlled for years before we moved into our house and, of course, the inevitable happens pretty quickly after. The big problem we had was that no chemical effect was declogging the kitchen drain. We called a plumber andresult was the biggest mess our kitchen has ever seen since construction. The plumber was burnt by a 94% sulfuric acid that he used unsuccessfully and eventually he was forced to do a more physical job, and that is where we realized that my husband could actually do this himself. So here we go, take the following few simple steps to avoid calling in the plumber:

First you need to identify where your kitchen drainage pipe is. Ours runs alongside the window wall and connects to the 5-inch main vertical drainage pipe in the eastern corner of the building. Find this pipe junction and you will see an access cap facing towards you. These caps are funny because they have been designed for access yet you might struggle to remove it because nobody has touched it for years. Try pouring a bit of liquid soap at the contact and then unscrew the cap. I advise using a mask, rubber gloves and goggles when doing this job for health and safety reasons.

Take a decent drill snake drain unblocker that comes with various attachments which you may have to use if pipe is seriously clogged (you shouldn't pay more than and they last for life). Push the snake drill through the access hole into a 2-inch kitchen drain pipe. You will feel when the snake reaches the obstruction. Push it forwards and backwards until the pipe is declogged. Be careful, as soon as this happens all the liquid in the drain pipe will rush towards the access junction so make sure you do not face it when this happens! Slightly open the tap with hot water and keep pushing the snake in and out to remove any residual material still attached to its inner wall. Attach the access cap and you're done - saving more than 0.

There is also a very simple and effective way to avoid similar problems in the future using just hot water. Once a week open a hot water tap and leave it running for about 40-60 seconds. This will heat up the pipes and melt the grease on the inner walls of the drainage pipe. Wait for about 2-3 minutes to allow for melting. During that time insert a sink stopper and fill the sink 2/3 with very hot water. Rapidly remove the stopper from the sink and hot water will flush any residual grease from the kitchen drainage pipe into the main system. Make sure to insert stoppers in all your sinks for about half an hour afterward to prevent smells entering your home. Do this with all your sinks and baths once a week and you will never again have to call in the plumber for declogging the drains.


Declogging Drains When Nothing Else Helps

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Sunday, 9 October 2011

Is Your Septic System Failing?

!±8± Is Your Septic System Failing?

You are going about your daily routine -- taking a shower, using the bathroom, making breakfast, using the garbage disposal etc. You notice that the plumbing is moving a little bit slower than usual -- you may even begin to notice a foul smell coming from the drains - then it happens. After a brief stop to the restroom you notice the garbage disposal, toilet and other items have made their way into the shower floor!

In a panic, you realize that the septic system is full and you can't remember the last time (if ever) you had the septic tank pumped. You pick up the yellow pages and dial a septic company to come and pump the tank. You are relieved to see the shower has drained and that your plumbing nightmare is over -- or so you think!

You go about your life and forget about the septic nightmare you just experienced. You get back to life and your daily routine and it happens again. There in the shower is that familiar sludge! Yuck. What is happening?

While this is an extremely stressful it is all to common. In the desert southwest of Tucson, Arizona we typically begin to see leach lines fail at about 25 years. Your area might be a little different but most leach fields begin to fail for lack of care.

What are leaching fields exactly? Well, the leach fields are underground gravel beds that receive all of the fluids from the septic tank. Fluid runs to a distribution box and then to these gravel beds. After a number of years tree roots, or sediment begins to clog the gravel beds and perforated pipe. Eventually these lines become so completely stopped up that the liquid has nowhere to go but back into the tank, back up the drain pipe and into the lowest level of your home.

So, what do you do about this?

A number of companies on the web will attempt to sell you chemical products that they claim will repair your trouble. In my opinion you are wasting your money. Once the leach fields are in this sort of shape you will most likely need to consider replacing the leach fields.

If you are handy -- and extremely brave, you could attempt to resolve this on your own, but you should be warned that this is a nasty job with lots of smells and disgusting sludge. If you can get over the smells and a little mess then it's time to get started.

Rent a backhoe from your local equipment yard and begin digging at the outlet side of the tank. Once you have uncovered the outlet pipe, cut the pipe with a pvc saw. If you have clay pipe I think it's just easier to break off the clay pipe completely and insert a new solid PVC or SDR35 drain pipe. Once you have inserted the new pipe into the tank you can mortar it in.

Now, contact the local septic tank manufacturer and ask for a concrete distribution box and lay the box level a few inches below the outlet pipe. You now have a place from which to start your trenches. Now, begin to dig your trenches at 3' to 4' below the distribution box. You will want to make your trenches to the original plan in order to install the same amount of leach area.

Now, fill the trenches with 3/4' to 1' gravel and lay your perforated pipes level throughout the trenches. Backfill with at least 6" of gravel over the pipe and cover with a soil separator.

Now, you are ready to backfill!

I have given you the very basics but I think you can get the idea. It's not rocket science but you want to make sure you talk with your local Department of Environmental Quality before starting your work. In some cases you will be required to scrap all of this and hookup to the city sewer system if they have expanded service to your area.

If you are not up for this work (not for most people) call on a licensed septic installer and get your 3 estimates. Make sure you ask about what kind of condition they will leave the area when they are done. If you want to save a little money you can take care of the clean up yourself.

I hope this helped in some way. Good luck to you!


Is Your Septic System Failing?

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Friday, 30 September 2011

InSinkErator Septic 3/4 Horsepower Food Waste Disposer

!±8±InSinkErator Septic 3/4 Horsepower Food Waste Disposer

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Post Date : Sep 30, 2011 13:21:05
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Created specifically for homes with septic systems

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Tuesday, 27 September 2011

Septic Systems: The Inside Story

!±8± Septic Systems: The Inside Story

Two components

Class 4 septic systems are in two parts, divided the septic tank and septic field or leaching bed. The waste from the house in the septic tank, which is essentially a water clarifier, which are divided into anaerobic bacteria in solid waste (sludge), direct liquid effluents and waste.

Septic System

The solids settle to the ground, the foam floats on the top and flows of liquid effluents through a drain pipe in a distributionRoom, where he is headed to the septic field. The field is a septic sewage disposal, in which the liquid is passed through the hollow tubes in different parts of a field of gravel.

Septic tank

Materials that are initially in the layer of foam floating in a drainage sytem from the exhaust baffle tee or held. If the tank is not pumped regularly, can increase the level of solids and, when he could, the level of the discharge approaches the tee, scum and solids can be madedrains, clogged pipes and gravel - and ultimately, preventing the absorption of water from the surrounding soil.

A septic system is a Class 5 holding canister for storage of waste at the point where it is produced. A typical tank is made of a single compartment tank with pump-out stack and an audible or visual alarm device for the home, if the tank needs emptying alarm together. A holding tank is expensive to use, reduces thethe owner, and depends on the class 7 (dragged) into the sewer system for waste collection and disposal.

A hotel run by a system of storage tanks requires agreement on the title of the registered owners of current and future maintenance of the property about restrictions.

Care and Maintenance

With proper care and maintenance, your septic tank and the field should provide many years of trouble-free operation. However, there are some important steps to follow to help you,the proper functioning of the sewerage system.

The Honey Wagon!

The septic tank in a residential area should be inspected at least once every two years for the formation of sludge. The tank should be pumped from a septic tank pumping contractor licensed when necessary. Under normal conditions, a septic tank should remove all its contents are two to three years.

The use of starters, bacterial feeds or detergents in a septic system is usually not necessary.

The final grade (topSoil) in the field should not be changed after it is installed and can be visited, and should be kept lawn after the installation. Shrubs, trees or gardens can not be established in the septic field.

Discharge to drains and sump pumps should not be addressed evestough in or on a field septic systems and lawn irrigation should not be in this range.

Tips

Limiting excessive amount of water in a short time can contribute to disorders of the septicProcess. You may consider the following practices to reduce water consumption:

* Install water-saving showers, toilets and sink aerators to low.

* Use dishwashers only with full load, and stagger the loads throughout the week.

* Do not run water continuously while shaving, brushing teeth, rinsing dishes or vegetables.

* A container of water in the refrigerator avoids the need to always run the water for a cold drink.

*The installation of waste grinders, hot tubs or spas big volumes are not recommended if the septic system was sized to accommodate their use.

* The use of biodegradable products is highly recommended. The disposal of non-biodegradable products such as condoms, diapers, plastic, floss, etc. is strongly discouraged.

If you have questions regarding the care and maintenance of your septic system, contact the contractor or the environmentDivision of the protection of your local health department.

The standards for private sewage systems in Ontario Regulation 358/90 are required under the Environmental Protection Act and the regulations of the Ministry of Environment and demands of the local municipality or munipality established.

General guidelines for buyers

* If the system is 5-7 years old and had never been pumped, it is unlikely that there are serious problems.

* If there is no trace ofSystem was pumped, but the owner has a vague memory of the pumping system at a given time in the distant past, because they never pumped.

* If the system more than 10 years and had never been pumped, it is possible that there was some damage to the septic field, and if it is not more than 15 years has been pumped, it is quite likely.

* The only way to make an accurate determination of the system is to have a licensed contractor or engineering firmRun a tank, distribution chamber and the control field and, possibly, soil sampling.

* Flushing dye through the system looks good, but only shows the systems that are already seriouslyclogged, in which case it should already be the most obvious signs.

* Flushing dye does not show serious shortcomings or failures of the systems are close, but still functional.

* If you are on a septic system, the addition of a bedroom, even without the addition of a bathroom can mean,increase with the size of the tank and drain field.

Visit the site for more information on RotoRooter pipes, sewers and waste water systems.


Septic Systems: The Inside Story

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Sunday, 25 September 2011

What are the types of garbage disposal?

!±8± What are the types of garbage disposal?

If you're in the market for a new garbage disposal, you may notice that there are several types to choose from. You may also encountered some concepts such as continuous and batch feed and wondered what it meant. An overview of the main types of stores available.

Transfers without end
He took no end that are controlled by a switch on the wall or sink, are the most common form. The waste can be continuously fed into theavailable until the water runs. The opening is available during operation, one of the main differences between this type of power supplies and batch, see the bottom is open.

Lot of power supplies
A lot of power available, also called junk control coverage, it only works when its plug is available. A feed lot is available from the waste and water all at once, and the insertion of the cover to operate the entire contents in a "batch" grind. Waste can not be fedavailable to stop because it works only if to secure the cover. There is a switch for the operation, so installation is easier than a waste endless. Why do they have to work to cover food sales lot are good opportunities for families with children.

Septic waste chute
If you have a septic system, waste disposal, there are specifications for the system. Septic tanks work of the waste chute as points without end, butThe cartridges contain food particles that help to break. The cartridges must be replaced every 3-6 months. It 'important to note that a septic system does not waste are used for the disposal of sea shells or tobacco.


What are the types of garbage disposal?

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